Fur coats for men: real, faux and shearling, and how to wear them

Fur coats for men have a longer history than almost any other garment, and a more complicated present. For centuries, fur was simply the warmest material available, worn by hunters, soldiers, drivers and kings. In the twentieth century it became a symbol of wealth and show, from 1920s college students in raccoon coats to musicians and sports stars. Today, fur coats for men are back in fashion, but the conversation has changed: most of what you see on the street is faux fur or shearling, and many people have strong views about the real thing. This guide explains the types of fur and faux fur, how to choose a coat, how to wear one without looking like you’re in costume, and how to look after it.

Fur coats for men: the quick answer

• Three main options: real fur, faux fur and shearling (sheepskin with the wool left on).
• Faux fur is now the common choice. Good faux is warm, far cheaper and avoids the ethical questions of real fur.
• Length sets the mood: short jackets are casual, long coats are dramatic.
• Keep everything else simple. The coat is the statement, so wear plain, dark, well-fitting clothes underneath.
• Start small if you’re unsure: a fur collar, a fur-lined hood or a shearling jacket.
• Care matters: fur and faux fur both dislike heat, damp storage and rough handling.

A short history of men’s fur

Fur was the original cold weather clothing. In northern Europe, Russia and North America, it stayed practical for centuries: lined coats, hats and collars for people who worked and travelled in the cold.

In the early 1900s, the first motorists wore huge fur coats in open cars. In the 1920s, full-length raccoon coats became a craze among American university students. Mid-century film stars and, later, musicians and athletes turned the fur coat into a statement of success. From the 1980s, animal welfare campaigns changed public opinion, many designers stopped using fur, and faux fur improved dramatically. The current revival is built mostly on faux fur, shearling and vintage pieces.

Real fur, faux fur and shearling compared

Feature	Real fur	Faux fur	Shearling
What it is	Animal pelt with the hair attached	Synthetic or plant-based fibres on a fabric backing	Sheepskin with the wool left on
Warmth	Very high	Good to high	Very high
Weight	Medium to heavy	Light to medium	Heavy
Price	Very high	Low to medium	High
Lifespan	Decades with care	Several years	Decades with care
Care	Specialist cleaning and storage	Spot clean or gentle wash, depending on the label	Specialist cleaning
Rain	Tolerates light snow, dislikes soaking	Varies, usually dries well	Dislikes soaking
Main concern	Animal welfare	Made from plastics, sheds microfibres	A by-product of the meat industry, still an animal product

Types of real fur

If you’re considering vintage or inherited fur, it helps to know what you’re looking at.

• Mink: short, dense, glossy and light. The classic luxury fur, and the usual meaning of a men’s mink coat.
• Fox: long, fluffy and voluminous. Often used for collars and trims.
• Sable: very fine and silky, and among the most expensive.
• Beaver: dense and hard-wearing, often sheared to a velvet-like finish.
• Raccoon: long, with natural stripes. The fur of the 1920s student coats.
• Rabbit: soft and inexpensive, but less durable.
• Coyote: thick and rugged, widely used for hood trims.
• Astrakhan or Persian lamb: tight curls, traditionally used for collars and hats.
• Shearling and sheepskin: wool on the inside, suede or leather on the outside.

Understanding faux fur

Faux fur is a pile fabric designed to look and feel like animal fur. Most is made from acrylic, modacrylic or polyester fibres. Newer versions use recycled or partly plant-based fibres.

How to recognise good faux fur

• Density: part the pile with your fingers. You shouldn’t easily see the backing.
• Softness: it should feel smooth, not scratchy or squeaky.
• Variation: good faux mixes longer and shorter fibres and several tones, as real fur does.
• Movement: the pile should spring back when brushed the wrong way.
• Little shedding: run your hand over it. A few fibres are normal, clumps are not.
• A proper lining: a smooth, well-sewn lining helps the coat hang and last.

Is it real or faux?

When buying second-hand, check three things.

1. The base: real fur grows from leather. Faux fur is attached to a woven or knitted fabric.
2. The tips: real hairs taper to a fine point. Faux fibres are usually cut blunt.
3. The label: in the European Union, textile products that contain real fur must state that they contain non-textile parts of animal origin.

The ethics and the law

It would be dishonest to write about fur without addressing this. Many people object to real fur because of how animals are farmed and trapped. Fur farming is banned in the UK and in a growing number of European countries, some places restrict fur sales, and many fashion houses and retailers no longer sell it.

Faux fur avoids animal welfare concerns, but most of it is made from fossil-fuel plastics, sheds microfibres and doesn’t biodegrade. Supporters of real fur argue that a natural coat lasts for generations.

If you want the look and feel uneasy about the choice, there are three sensible routes.

• Vintage or second-hand fur: no new demand, and the coat already exists.
• High-quality faux fur: buy one good coat and keep it for years.
• Shearling or wool pile: natural fibres with a similar texture.

The decision is personal. Whatever you choose, buy once and wear it for a long time.

Styles of men’s fur coat

The full-length fur coat

Knee-length or longer, and the most dramatic option. It needs height or confidence, and very simple clothes underneath.

The fur jacket

Waist or hip length, often a bomber or zip-up shape. It’s the easiest style to wear every day.

The fur blazer

A tailored jacket cut from faux fur or sheared fur, with lapels. It’s a party and evening piece, popular for winter events and celebrations.

The fur-collar coat

A wool overcoat with a fur or faux fur collar, sometimes detachable. It’s the most classic and understated way to wear fur.

The fur-hooded parka

A padded parka with a fur or faux fur trim on the hood. The trim has a practical purpose: it breaks the wind around the face.

The shearling jacket

Flight jackets and trucker-style jackets lined with sheepskin or wool pile. Rugged, warm and widely accepted.

The fur-lined coat

Fur on the inside, cloth or leather on the outside. All the warmth with none of the show.

The fluffy fleece or teddy coat

A deep-pile wool or synthetic fleece coat. It gives a similar soft texture in a casual, modern form.

Style	Statement level	Best for
Fur-lined coat	Low	Everyday warmth
Fur-collar overcoat	Low to medium	Office, smart events
Fur-hooded parka	Low	Daily winter wear
Shearling jacket	Medium	Weekends, travel
Fur jacket or bomber	Medium to high	Nights out, city wear
Fur blazer	High	Parties, festive events
Full-length fur coat	Very high	Special occasions, fashion events

How to choose a fur coat

Fit

• Shoulders: the seam should sit at your natural shoulder. Fur adds bulk, so avoid padded shoulders.
• Sleeves: end at the base of the thumb, a little longer than a jacket.
• Body: room for a jumper, but not so much that the coat swallows you.
• Length: shorter men usually look better in hip-length or mid-thigh styles. Taller men can carry a full-length coat.

Colour

• Black, dark brown and charcoal: the easiest to wear and the most discreet.
• Natural browns, tan and grey: classic and outdoor in feel.
• Cream and white: striking, but hard to keep clean.
• Bright colours and prints: for fashion-forward wardrobes and parties.

Pile length

Short, sheared piles look sleeker and add less bulk. Long piles are bolder and make you look bigger.

How to wear a fur coat

The rule is simple: one statement, and everything else quiet.

1. The evening outfit

A black faux fur coat over a black roll neck, black tailored trousers and Chelsea boots.

2. The casual city outfit

A brown faux fur or shearling jacket, a grey crew-neck jumper, dark jeans and leather boots.

3. The smart office outfit

A navy or charcoal overcoat with a fur collar over a suit or a blazer and flannel trousers.

4. The party outfit

A fur blazer in black or deep brown with a white shirt, slim black trousers and polished shoes. See our New Year’s Eve outfits for men for more party ideas.

5. The streetwear outfit

A cropped faux fur jacket over a hoodie with relaxed trousers and chunky boots or leather trainers.

6. The cold-weather outfit

A fur-hooded parka over a fleece or thick jumper with lined trousers and insulated boots. Our guide to cold weather clothing explains the layers.

Styling rules

• Keep patterns away from the coat. Plain knits and shirts work best.
• Wear slim or straight trousers to balance the volume on top.
• Choose solid shoes: boots balance a big coat better than thin shoes.
• Limit jewellery and accessories.
• Wear it open over a simple outfit if a closed fur coat feels too much.

Colours that work with fur

Occasions: when a fur coat works

Occasion	Suitable?	Best choice
Daily commute	Yes	Fur-hooded parka or fur-collar overcoat
Weekend in the city	Yes	Shearling or faux fur jacket
Winter wedding	Yes	Fur-collar overcoat over a suit
Party or night out	Yes	Fur blazer or faux fur jacket
Ski resort	Yes	Fur-trimmed parka, shearling
Office	With care	Fur collar or lining only
Rainy day	No	Wear a wool coat or waterproof jacket

Caring for a fur coat

Real fur and shearling

• Hang on a wide, padded hanger with space around it.
• Never store it in plastic. Use a cloth garment bag.
• Keep it cool, dark and dry. Heat dries out the leather.
• If it gets wet, shake it and let it dry naturally, away from heat.
• Have it cleaned by a fur or leather specialist, never an ordinary dry cleaner.
• In summer, professional cold storage extends its life.

Faux fur

• Follow the care label. Some coats can be machine washed cold on a gentle cycle, and others are spot clean only.
• Never tumble dry on heat or iron the pile. Synthetic fibres melt and mat.
• Dry it flat or on a hanger, then brush gently with a soft brush.
• Use a washing bag designed to catch microfibres, and wash rarely.
• Store it on a wide hanger with room to breathe.

What a fur coat costs

Prices vary widely, so think in ranges.

• Faux fur: from an affordable high-street price to several hundred pounds or euros for dense, well-made coats.
• Shearling: usually from several hundred to a few thousand.
• Vintage real fur: often surprisingly cheap, because demand is low. Check the condition carefully.
• New real fur: in the thousands, and far more for rare furs.

A good faux fur coat or a well-kept vintage piece gives the best value for most men.

Buying vintage fur

• Check the leather: gently flex the coat. Dry, cracking or crunchy leather means it’s past saving.
• Look for bald patches at the cuffs, pockets, collar and seat.
• Smell it: mustiness is hard to remove.
• Inspect the lining and the seams.
• Try it on: older coats were often cut wide. A specialist can alter them.

Fur and faux fur for boys and kids

Children rarely wear full fur coats, but soft textures are common in winter clothing.

• Faux fur-trimmed parkas are warm and practical.
• Fleece and teddy jackets are soft, washable and popular with all ages.
• Shearling-lined boots and hats keep small feet and ears warm.

Choose washable faux fur for children, and check that trims are firmly attached.

Common mistakes

Mistake	Why it fails	Do this instead
Busy outfit under a fur coat	Too much going on	Plain, dark clothes
Thin, shiny faux fur	Looks cheap and mats quickly	Dense, soft pile with a good lining
A coat that’s too big	Overwhelms your frame	Fit the shoulders first
Wearing it in heavy rain	Damage and matting	A waterproof coat on wet days
Storing it in plastic	Traps moisture, dries leather	A cloth garment bag
Heat drying	Ruins fur and melts faux fibres	Dry naturally

For more outerwear, read our guides to winter coats for men and the main types of jackets for men.